Shutter speed is important as it is one of the variables that determine the sharpness of your image along with exposure and aperture (depth of field). The shutter speed is especially important with action or moving subjects. The faster the movement, the faster the shutter – for example; someone jogging 1/45-1/60 sec, car at normal speed 1/125 sec approx. Motorcycle / car racing 1/250+ sec. Panning is moving the camera in the direction that the subject is going, this has two benefits; it reduces the shutter speed and blurs the background while maintaining a sharp subject. This also works well where you might have a distracting background or many spectators.
Always make sure that you have the correct shutter speed for the appropriate lens or zoom. As a simple rule try to have the same shutter speed or greater than the lens length. Example 17-40 zoom use 1/45-1/60 sec, 200mm zoom use 1/250 sec. With special anti-shake lenses you can use these lenses with 2 0r 3 stops less depending on the brand or make but you pay a premium for this feature on most lenses. Experiment and you will quickly find out how low a shutter speed you can use. Also don’t be afraid to increase your iso up to400 or 800 iso if the lighting is poor as many digital cameras have good results up to 800 or more in some cases. If lighting conditions are good use the lowest iso usually 100 as this will give the sharpest results.
Modern digital Slr’s have very sophisticated metering systems that work very well in many situations but there are some situations that will result in a underexposure (to dark) or overexposure (to light) image. If you understand why this happens you will be able to correct it at the time of taking the image which is preferable to trying to adjust the lighting / exposure later in a photo software editing programme like Photoshop.
Polarising & ND Filters & ND Graduated
 copy.jpg "Wicklow Coast (The Murrough)")
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Polarising filters come in two main types circular and linear. The circular screw to the front of the lens and rotate, the benefit of this is that you can see through the viewfinder the effect it has on your scenes as you rotate the outer part of the filter. While the quality is usually good with many manufactures you will require a new polariser for different size lenses or zooms (with different screw sizes). The other main type like cokin or Hood etc. use polarising filters that fit into a holder that hold ¾ filters at the same time and you just change the ring size for different lenses. These are a very cost effective method as you only need to purchase 1 filter type to fit many different size lenses. |
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